Dead Thermostat?

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#3080 (In Topic #477)
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The installer code will not come up. Changed the batts and checked my old Therm unit.

What did I miss or is this a bad unit or is therea reset? I recall the options simply popping up.

Tks, Brian
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Disregard.....reset....user error :-(
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My Hallowell/White Rodgers Thermostat went dead sometime during the day yesterday.  I removed it from the wall, removed the batteries for 2 min. as the manual suggested for a reset and installed two new batteries.  I reconnected the t-stat to the wall and still blank, no illumination and no digital function…do these things just 'go' and have to be replaced?  Can I purchase the replacement on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Emerson-1F95-1277-Touchscreen-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B001DXETG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497178724&sr=8-1&keywords=1f95-1271

Just install and reprogram?

btw, I have a two zone system, zone 2 is working, but this zone 1 thermostat is not.  I pulled each off the wall and swapped them, now the former zone 2 t-stat is where the zone 1 t-stat was and is working, but the 'dead' zone 1 (now on zone 2) is still not working.
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Yes, that thermostat is virtually plug and play.  There is one piece of advise that I always give with this swap.  See the page 2 discussion here http://www.savemyacadia.org/forum/index.php?page=topicview&type=misc&id=thermostats%2Fhallowell-thermostat_2&start=20&keep_mobile=0 I'll try to actually find the Hallowell documentation as well.   And yes, they do just simply stop working
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Gabe,

I have a PDf for the White Rogers T-Stat if you can't find it.
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During this past storm, our power fluctuated a number of times, and our Acadia stopped producing heat.  This has happened before, and I had installed FWO 1 and 3, and a new fuse has always got things working again,  I changed the fuse this time, and all was well, until we came home and found no heat, with the ourdoor fan and the air handler on.  Chaniging the fuse didn't make a difference, but something else was happening that has never happened before.  The thermostat , which has always given two clicks when changing operating mode, was giving three.  Sometimes the outdoor fan came on, other times not, the air handler came on at high speed and no heat.  I would like to think the thermostat is the problem as we had to replace is once already.  Any thoughts on this three clicks?

Bertie
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I wonder if the installer programming is correct.  It sort of sounds as if one the clicks is the reversing valve.  Did you try manually starting the compressor by pushing in the contactors?
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That was my next thought.  At this point, the Acadia fan also is not working now.  After our next snow (tomorrow) I will try to manually start the compressor and the fan.  We have a new thermostat and have left it in the manual setting.  If the compressor is ok, is the board inside the Acadia possibly at fault?  
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Bertie said

That was my next thought.  At this point, the Acadia fan also is not working now.  After our next snow (tomorrow) I will try to manually start the compressor and the fan.  We have a new thermostat and have left it in the manual setting.  If the compressor is ok, is the board inside the Acadia possibly at fault?  

Possibly the board.  I'd rule out the other possibilities first though.
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Gabe,
With the weather relenting I checked out the status of the Acadia.  With power on but thermostat set to off, I checked the fan and the compressors.  All worked well expect the stage 2 for the primary.  I have installed FWO  3 and 3c, and on occasion the stage 1 fuse has blown.  This was a first for the stage 2.  I replaced the fuse and everything now works outside.  The thermostat was a bit confused, and after resetting a few times, I was able to set the temp. limit, set the system to Heat and the fan to auto.  This is how we have always operated it, and it is working perfectly again.  I imagine all the power spikes during the last storm took out the stage 2 fuse and apparently upset the thermostat.  Thanks for your help and suggestions, and the FWOs.  Without them our Acadia would not be working.

Michael (Bertie)
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Bertie said

Gabe,
With the weather relenting I checked out the status of the Acadia.  With power on but thermostat set to off, I checked the fan and the compressors.  All worked well expect the stage 2 for the primary.  I have installed FWO  3 and 3c, and on occasion the stage 1 fuse has blown.  This was a first for the stage 2.  I replaced the fuse and everything now works outside.  The thermostat was a bit confused, and after resetting a few times, I was able to set the temp. limit, set the system to Heat and the fan to auto.  This is how we have always operated it, and it is working perfectly again.  I imagine all the power spikes during the last storm took out the stage 2 fuse and apparently upset the thermostat.  Thanks for your help and suggestions, and the FWOs.  Without them our Acadia would not be working.

Michael (Bertie)


Great news! Glad to help
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Hi Gabe

I had thermostat problems and bought the Whote Rogers 1F95-1277. I got it installed and I think programed alright it has more steps than the old one. Now when I call for cooling it actually is heating. The reversing valve did not switch. In a previous post you had a link to a discussion but when I click on it I get an error. I was wondering what I may have done in the programming or wiring that would cause this .
 
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Hi Gabe
After posting started looking thermostat info over as it has more settings in configuration. also noticed when I installed it that on hte old thermostat it had a O and B terminal and the new one an O/B terminal which I found on closer reading of the configuration needs to be set in I believe step three to either O or b as the Old thermostat used the O terminal and I had mine set to b the reversing valve was not energized so it was heating not cooling. reconfigured that setting and we are off to the races other than this small hitch this thermostat is just wire configure and go.
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Sorry for not seeing this sooner. Glad you were able to figure it out. There are a lot of settings to go through!
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Looking for some hints or suggestions. I had a coil sensor fail yesterday. I made sure it wasn't just a bad connection sensor was bad. Repalced the sensor with a spare and restarted system. It woult throw a call for service code on the t/s but unit wa ok. found on a thread to swap WE an W2 terminals and this problem went away. (can't remeber which TS thread I was in when I saw that. Now how ever the unit seems to go int Defrost alot I put hte new sensor in the same plce on the as before I taped it to the line with Gorilla Tape and two zip ties covered it with the original piece of insulation and covered that with some pipe insulation to make sure it was coved. What could be hte issue if any.
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Swapping the WE and W2 only applies to a new White Rodgers thermostat when replacing the original. As far as your problem is concerned, the sensor was probably reading off for a while. Now that the board is getting accurate info it may be indicating a problem that you werent aware of.  You may actually have a low refrigerant charge that needs to be corrected. I'd suggest you get pressures and pipe temps to compare with the chart and see whats going on
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Thanks Gabe will do that. I did have to swap out the Old White Rogers for the new one so the wire swap was one fix. I will check line temps I don't have a guage set to check pressures. There was a vast temperature change as well down to -10 to -15 C (14 to 5 F) so that might have something to do with it and the fact it was trying to warm the house back up after cooling down during the rear. It seems to have settled down a bit now. Glad for this site though as I don't know if I could have kept this unit going without it. Info here is a life save at time.
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Even without putting gauges on the unit, you can get a lot of info just using a thermometer.  Fyi, I always found clamp thermometers to be the most accurate. Using the chart and knowing what the outdoor temp is and liquid line temp is, you'll get a quick sense of if charge is close or not. For example, if the outdoor temp is 27°, the smaller refrigerant pipe (liquid line) should be 70-80°. With gauges on, you monitor temp as well as pressures while in second stage to see if it's charged properly. Add charge, wait until stabilized, see if close and if not, repeat. Remember these units do not do well with charge problems and should be addressed sooner than later


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