Weartherguard installation assistance?

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As I previously posted I purchased a Weatherguard heat pump fan protector from airfiltration.ca for my 3-ton ACHPT.  The installation instructions say that I need to know the distance between my coils and the top of my ACHPT 3-Ton HP.  I plan to drive two sheet metal screws through the top of the heat pump around the fan shroud.

Does anyone know (I assume Gabe) the clearance I have between the coils and the bottom of the top of the heat pump cover sheet metal?
weather-guard

I hope to post pictures if the install?

Last edit: by buttchas

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To clarify I may use some sheet metal screws to the top of the heat pump and want to make sure I do not damage the tubes.
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Hmmm, don't actually recall measuring how far below the cover the coils are.  I think I would use 1/2" sheet metal screws so they barely poke below the cover.  You would probably be wise to pull the screws all the way around the lid and lift it up to see.  Can you rotate the weather guard so where you need to drill into the lid is away from the edges?  After you get about 3-4" in from the edges of the Acadia you should be away from the coil.
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It appears that the the 3-4 inch idea will not be viable.
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weatherguard test fit

weatherguard test fit

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It looks like I may have to lift the lid.
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You could try some Velcro.  That way it's attached but can be removed. Definitely don't want to hit the coils!
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The Manufacturer says that Velcro will work.  But I looked into it's properties and I discovered that the minimum temperature is 0 degrees F and it does not work well when used in direct sunlight.  Both are in my application scope.

Therefore I went with the other manufacturers recommendation.  Use the same size sheet metal screws used to secure the heat pump sheet metal to hold down the Weatherguard.  I asked for Engineering data and they have nothing so I believe this is a guess.  Since I have a limited time slot will wing it with their recommendations and review more simplistic and sturdier solutions after spring time.  Such as 1/4" find thread 18-8 hex head cap screws mounted upside down with nuts and Loctight red.  For now I will live with the following:

Found the following hardware at Lowes:
  • Stainless Steel Machine screws #10 x 1/2" long (normal ones - not self drilling since they are longer).
  • Stainless Steel Lock Washers #10.
  • Stainless Steel Washers #10.
  • Stainless Steel Washers 1" diameter X 1/4" hole.
I then cleaned the top cover and turned off the thermostat and turned off the circuit breaker to the outside unit.
I went outside and removed all the screws holding down the top cover of the heat pump.

Placed the 1" diameter washers on the interior contour of the Weatherguard.  The lock washers were near the head followed by #10 washer(s).  Used a pencil to mark the position.  Then a center-punch and a hammer to insure it is correct.  Followed by drilling a hole with a 9/64" drill bit on the center punch position.
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Use a straight edge and a pencil to drew an X across the center of the bottom of the Weatherguard then attache with Scotch tape a string and washer to the center of the Weatherguard.

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Then with a pencil I drew an X across the top of the motor so I can center it.  I then had a helper slide 2" x 4" wood lengths under each end of the heat pump as I lifted the top cover.  Then measured the distance from the top cover to the top of the coil.  I measured 5/16" gap.

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Center the Weatherguard in two directions and marking the direction the Weatherguard is facing on the heat pump.
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Traced the outline and center holes on the top cover with a pencil.  Then drilled the center holes on the top cover.  Making sure that the 2" x 4" wood remained under the drill so that there is no possibility to damage the coils.

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Installed the hardware loosely.  All clearances were checked.  The side facing the control board had clearance but the opposite end required me to add more washers.  I added more #10 washers (thickness varies by washer manufacturers) to get 1/8" (2/16") protruding with 3/16" factor of safety for clearance.
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Then I used some 3M double side automotive molding tape and placed a 1.5-2" long strip on the top side as close to the #10 screw as possible.  This is what I had, maybe Industrial Velcro would have been a better choice (thought it would not last).  Besides automotive molding tape can be removed with some elbow grease…
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Here is the final product…
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It is getting cold again!  I hope it works!
:ninja:

Last edit: by buttchas

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Nice,  I have been contemplating doing one of those on each of my hp's or building a roof over them.  Problem with a roof is if it is close enough to the hp's cold air might recirculate.
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Thanks.  Flow seems to be the same based solely on sound (which means nothing).  CFM testing before and after would be nice but I do not have the equipment.

I am impatiently waiting for the next ice storm or heavy snow to see if it prevents me from having to dig it out.
:)

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I had eight (8) inches of snow last night.  I looked at the HP from the street and the guard did it's job.  The snow was on top and the fan was clear.
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Since the install it has snowed lick crazy here.  Last night we had an ice storm.  In the past, I would have to manually clear my fan shroud after an ice storm.  Not this time! I am please with the Weatehrguard.   Sorry the weather is so bad, I cannot get a good picture over the snow bank.  O_o
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